The King of Style: Dressing Michael Jackson: Behind the Seams of a Fashion Icon

http://www.chinapost.com.tw/art/books/2012/10/14/357549/p2/Book-chronicles.htm

Book chronicles Jackson as king of style

NEW YORK--Michael Jackson was the ultimate entertainer, who oversaw all the details of his shows, from the slick choreography to the rhinestones and pearls carefully hand sewn onto his elaborate costumes, his longtime costume designer says.

As much as music and dance characterized the pop superstar, the late Jackson was also known for his style, from military outfits and regalia, to jewel-encrusted gloves, fedora hats and intricately beaded jackets.

In a new book, “The King of Style: Dressing Michael Jackson,” Michael Bush, the man who designed and made Jackson's stage costumes for 25 years until the pop star's death in 2009, offers a behind-the-scenes look at the iconic superstar and the development of his signature style.

“The clothes had to work around the way he was performing,” Bush told Reuters in a telephone interview. “He wanted his outfits, or his costumes, to be as entertaining on a hanger as they were on him. It was an added layer of refinement and detail that he was projecting to his audience.”

Everything Jackson wore had a focus and was an extension of what he was doing on stage, with dance playing a pivotal role in the designs. He favored rhinestones and beading because they reflected the stage lighting.

Function, fitness and comfort were essential, with neckties and fringes forbidden because they could be grabbed by fans.

“It was very contrived. It was very thought out,” said Bush, adding that as the stadiums got bigger, Jackson's pants got shorter and shorter, the better to see his rhinestone socks.

“Michael was concerned that the people in the back row paid just as much to see him perform as the people in the front, so no one got cheated out of the entertainment he was projecting, because everyone could see what he was doing,” Bush said.

Each of the 800 to 900 costumes Bush and his partner Dennis Tompkins, who died last year, made for Jackson were over-the-top, skin tight, flashy pop-star creations. Many are shown in detailed photographs in the book, along with sketches and performance photos.

Still, away from the spotlight, Jackson preferred more casual, loose-fitting corduroy shirts, black cotton pants with front pleats, and loafers.
And despite all his fame and wealth, and gifts of expensive designer shoes, Jackson always performed in Florsheim shoes, which can be purchased in most U.S. malls.

“He taught himself to dance in Florsheims. They were comfortable and were what he had worn as a child star,” Bush explained in the book, to be published Oct. 23.

Jackson's style evolved from his military outfits, featuring taut lines and embellishments and designed with his female audience in mind. These were followed by a more rebellious, edgy look with leather jackets, including one with small spoons and forks dangling, like military medals, across the front.

Strobe lights and electric jackets were the next step. Each album had its own look, which evolved from the look preceding it.

Perhaps Bush and Tompkins's greatest achievement was Jackson's “lean shoes,” which were eventually patented. He first performed his “lean move,” leaning forward at a 45-degree angle in the short film “Smooth Criminal” in 1987, thanks to behind-the-scenes magic.

Bush and Tompkins were tasked with developing shoes that would allow Jackson to perform the move before a live audience, without falling over. It took Tompkins a month but he devised shoes that bolted to the floor and worked perfectly on stage.

Although Jackson claimed not to have a favorite costume, Bush said the one the pop star liked the most, and in which he was laid to rest, was the pearl and bead encrusted white military jacket that he wore when his sister Janet handed him a Grammy award in 1993.
 
Re: Dressing Michael Jackson: Behind the Seams of a Fashion Icon [Hardcover]


Michael Jackson Refused To Wear Clothes From His Child Molestation Trial

Michael Jackson asked his stylist to dispose of all the clothes he wore during his infamous child molestation trial because they brought back bad memories.

The King of Pop was arrested in November, 2003 and charged with seven counts of child molestation after allegedly having inappropriate relations with a 13-year-old boy.

The case went to trial in January, 2005 at a court in Santa Maria, California, but the Thriller hitmaker, who maintained his innocence throughout the ordeal, was eventually acquitted of all charges five months later (May05).

Costume designer Michael Bush dressed Jackson every day of the legal battle, and he admits it was a challenge staying true to the singer's eccentric look, while also making him appear professional.

He tells the New York Post, "If Michael stepped into the courtroom in a (generic) Men's Warehouse black suit, it'd look like he wasn't himself. We went crazy once and did an electric blue one, but even Michael said, 'We can't go that far.'"

The time period was so emotionally taxing for Jackson, he refused to ever wear the clothes again - even though most of the outfits included one-of-a-kind pieces.

According to Bush, he said, "I never want to see those again."

http://www.contactmusic.com/news/mi...hes-from-his-child-molestation-trial_3322250#


Jewels, pearls, and plain Florsheim shoes for Michael Jackson

(Reuters) - Michael Jackson was the ultimate entertainer, who oversaw all the details of his shows, from the slick choreography to the rhinestones and pearls carefully hand sewn onto his elaborate costumes, his longtime costume designer says.

As much as music and dance characterized the pop superstar, the late Jackson was also known for his style, from military outfits and regalia, to jewel-encrusted gloves, fedora hats and intricately beaded jackets.

In a new book, "The King of Style: Dressing Michael Jackson," Michael Bush, the man who designed and made Jackson's stage costumes for 25 years until the pop star's death in 2009, offers a behind-the-scenes look at the iconic superstar and the development of his signature style.

"The clothes had to work around the way he was performing," Bush told Reuters in a telephone interview. "He wanted his outfits, or his costumes, to be as entertaining on a hanger as they were on him. It was an added layer of refinement and detail that he was projecting to his audience."

Everything Jackson wore had a focus and was an extension of what he was doing on stage, with dance playing a pivotal role in the designs. He favored rhinestones and beading because they reflected the stage lighting.

Function, fitness and comfort were essential, with neckties and fringes forbidden because they could be grabbed by fans.

"It was very contrived. It was very thought out," said Bush, adding that as the stadiums got bigger, Jackson's pants got shorter and shorter, the better to see his rhinestone socks.

"Michael was concerned that the people in the back row paid just as much to see him perform as the people in the front, so no one got cheated out of the entertainment he was projecting, because everyone could see what he was doing," Bush said.

MAN OF PARADOXES

Each of the 800 to 900 costumes Bush and his partner Dennis Tompkins, who died last year, made for Jackson were over-the-top, skin tight, flashy pop-star creations. Many are shown in detailed photographs in the book, along with sketches and performance photos.

Still, away from the spotlight, Jackson preferred more casual, loose-fitting corduroy shirts, black cotton pants with front pleats, and loafers.

And despite all his fame and wealth, and gifts of expensive designer shoes, Jackson always performed in Florsheim shoes, which can be purchased in most U.S. malls.

"He taught himself to dance in Florsheims. They were comfortable and were what he had worn as a child star," Bush explained in the book, to be published October 23.

Jackson's style evolved from his military outfits, featuring taut lines and embellishments and designed with his female audience in mind. These were followed by a more rebellious, edgy look with leather jackets, including one with small spoons and forks dangling, like military medals, across the front.

"The first layer was the jacket, then we put the zipper underneath that and the buckles from the "Bad" album look, and then we asked: 'How can we make this larger than life on stage?'"

Strobe lights and electric jackets were the next step. Each album had its own look, which evolved from the look preceding it.

Perhaps Bush and Tompkins's greatest achievement was Jackson's "lean shoes," which were eventually patented. He first performed his "lean move," leaning forward at a 45-degree angle in the short film "Smooth Criminal" in 1987, thanks to behind-the-scenes magic.

Bush and Tompkins were tasked with developing shoes that would allow Jackson to perform the move before a live audience, without falling over. It took Tompkins a month but he devised shoes that bolted to the floor and worked perfectly on stage.

Although Jackson claimed not to have a favorite costume, Bush said the one the pop star liked the most, and in which he was laid to rest, was the pearl and bead encrusted white military jacket that he wore when his sister Janet handed him a Grammy award in 1993.

There wasn't time to track down the original jacket when the Jackson family contacted Bush and Tompkins and asked them to choose his final outfit, so they made a copy.

"Michael was a man of many paradoxes, most of which we were able to represent in the clothes we designed: Rigid military cuts that were also elastic and moveable; rebellious regalia, fit for army commanders, worn over the heart of a gentle man; bedazzled embellishments adorning a man blessed with a quiet humility; one of a kind, handcrafted clothes worn with aged, scuffed Florsheim shoes," Bush said in the book.

Jackson, 50, died in Los Angeles in June 2009 from an overdose of the surgical anesthetic propofol, which he was taking to help him sleep. His personal physician, Dr. Conrad Murray, is serving a four-year prison term for involuntary manslaughter.

(Editing by Jill Serjeant and Bernadette Baum)
http://www.reuters.com/article/2012...books-michaeljackson-co-idUSBRE89B0V820121012
 
I can't to get my hands on that book and I pre-ordered the book from Chapters-Indigo.
 
File photo of the clothes that Michael Jackson was laid to rest in, following his death in 2009

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Michael was buried in that white jacket from the 1993 Grammys? It's a beautiful jacket and I can remember how happy he looked at the Grammys in it. The clothes he wore for the trial were very nice but I don't blame him for never wanting to wear or see them again.
 
Michael was buried in that white jacket from the 1993 Grammys?

It's a replica. Bush says that rather than trying to track down the original jacket, they did a replica one.
 
Aww the burial outfit is so him, I love it. The pants are awesome. They made him ready for the stage nice. I will buy this book but, this info here is confusing...
"Perhaps Bush and Tompkins's greatest achievement was Jackson's “lean shoes,” which were eventually patented. He first performed his “lean move,” leaning forward at a 45-degree angle in the short film “Smooth Criminal” in 1987, thanks to behind-the-scenes magic.

Bush and Tompkins were tasked with developing shoes that would allow Jackson to perform the move before a live audience, without falling over. It took Tompkins a month but he devised shoes that bolted to the floor and worked perfectly on stage.
I always thought MJ helped with the design idea of those shoes much like with his outfits and not just ask them to do it for him? o_O

Edit: Never mind I don't agree with him auctioning MJ clothes away like that for money! So not buying his book.
 
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I just now seen this thread....odd how it was announced in April about his book...and here we are now in October and we are hearing about how Michael's things will be auctioned off on December 2nd. Michael Bush KNEW that back then..he just kept it to himself...auctions are not planned over night...so yes he knew when he started trying to get fans support for his book that is a few short months he was going to break the hearts of millions of fans around the world by doing what it is he is doing. People are sneaky...especially the one's that were around MJ...its hard to believe a word any of them say,,,they think MJ fans are stupid...but...thats NOT the case.
 
Thompkins & Bush made clothes for Michael throughout the years.
And they made extras to keep.
They even made the clothes he was laid to rest in.
Who are you to decide what the man, whose own partner died last year, has to do with the clothes he made?

I am looking forward to this book, as its the closest look I and many fans will ever get into all the beautiful clothes that MJ used to wear.
 
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just because he made them he was still paid to make them...and what proof does he have other than his word that Michael gave them to him? The point I am trying to make here is no one seems to care what it was Michael wanted...from how they treat his children to what it was he wanted for SOME of his clothes...and this is the truth...the man specified certain things,,,and we have yet to see ANY of those things happen...and if there is a dollar sign attached to it...we WON'T see it either. :mad:
 
I just now seen this thread....odd how it was announced in April about his book...and here we are now in October and we are hearing about how Michael's things will be auctioned off on December 2nd. Michael Bush KNEW that back then..he just kept it to himself...auctions are not planned over night...so yes he knew when he started trying to get fans support for his book that is a few short months he was going to break the hearts of millions of fans around the world by doing what it is he is doing. People are sneaky...especially the one's that were around MJ...its hard to believe a word any of them say,,,they think MJ fans are stupid...but...thats NOT the case.

Actually the press release about the auction was released on May 14 so it wasn't a secret.

http://www.juliensauctions.com/press/2012/tompkins-and-bush.html
 
Actually the press release about the auction was released on May 14 so it wasn't a secret.

http://www.juliensauctions.com/press/2012/tompkins-and-bush.html[/QUOT


Thank you for that link Ivy. I was wrong and I apologize for that...I didn't know that. But still...it is a sad day when we see MJ's costume's auctioned off. :(

edited to add...Did anyone post that press release here on the forum for the fans to see at the time?...if so maybe I missed it.
 
Actually the press release about the auction was released on May 14 so it wasn't a secret.

http://www.juliensauctions.com/press/2012/tompkins-and-bush.html[/QUOT


Thank you for that link Ivy. I was wrong and I apologize for that...I didn't know that. But still...it is a sad day when we see MJ's costume's auctioned off. :(

edited to add...Did anyone post that press release here on the forum for the fans to see at the time?...if so maybe I missed it.

Yes, it was posted at the link below, on the 14th May 12....

http://www.mjjcommunity.com/forum/t...hibited-globally-before-hitting-auction-block
 
ok so I DID post in that thread back in May...and here is what i said back then...

I can understand some being unhappy about what seems to be "everything MJ"....is being sold...it kind of makes me myself feel as though Michael is being "sold off"...piece by piece ..garment by garment...and that is hard for some of us to take. We had to say good by to Michael and by seeing his things/costumes sold to it is as though I am having to say goodbye to more of MJ. Its not easy. I know he doesn't need them anymore...but..it would be nice to see them displayed forever in a museum...OR if they do have to be sold...then a charity of HIS choice should get the donations...the Estate knows which ones he would donate too...so I would be happy seeing one of them benefit from the sale.


atleast I am consistent in my posting...I said then and I said in this thread too....BM could atleast give some of the proceeds to a charity that Michael would of approved of. I am going to ask this question again..every-time I ask it gets ignored. WHAT is Michael Bush going to do with the OTHER 95% of the money?? He is only donating 5%...is he going to pockets the rest??...
 
ok so I DID post in that thread back in May...and here is what i said back then...




atleast I am consistent in my posting...I said then and I said in this thread too....BM could atleast give some of the proceeds to a charity that Michael would of approved of. I am going to ask this question again..every-time I ask it gets ignored. WHAT is Michael Bush going to do with the OTHER 95% of the money?? He is only donating 5%...is he going to pockets the rest??...

I'm sure your question is not being ignored...but I am guessing that no-one except Mr Bush knows the answer.
These items could not be sold at auction unless the person selling them has 'legal title' to hand them over for auction. If he has legal title, then the items must belong to him, and therefore any value realised at sale will belong to him, unless he chooses to donate (as we know a proportion will be) or use any of the funds raised for other purposes (which we don't know about). I think we may just have to wait and see what happens after the sale.
 
I'm sure your question is not being ignored...but I am guessing that no-one except Mr Bush knows the answer.
These items could not be sold at auction unless the person selling them has 'legal title' to hand them over for auction. If he has legal title, then the items must belong to him, and therefore any value realised at sale will belong to him, unless he chooses to donate (as we know a proportion will be) or use any of the funds raised for other purposes (which we don't know about). I think we may just have to wait and see what happens after the sale.


I know and your are probably right..I guess I was just looking for a answer like everyone else...but for me it eats up my insides until I get some kind of clarity...QBee posted this in the other thread and it helped me and gave me peace..while it doesn't say about what he will do with the remainder of the money ..she posted about MB not owning all of the costumes...here I will post it here for you to see :)

Not all items being presented are going to be auctioned.
Karen fayes stated Many of these costumes MLB has on display belong to the estate. Most likely on loan from the Estate. I believe these will be returned to the Estate and not auctioned off. Lets not forget many of these costumes also have doubles. MJ had more than one of each costume made. Much of what MJB is auctioning is signed by Michael as a gift to MLB and not an item he was specifically saving to put in a museum.

But in the end the Majority of MJ costumes and wardrobe will end up in what ever museum is built. Once the estate is out of probate and ready to persue that avenue. Many serious buyers are proud to place their items in museums - with "donated by plaques" .. they want them seen and protected - not hidden in their closets.
 
I'm reading it and absolutely loving it! It's amazing, fascinating, mind-blowing. Not just because of the pictures, but because of the things Bush writes about. I admire Michael on a whole new level. It's definitely the best MJ-related publication of the year. Would make a great gift to any fan for the holiday season!

Kudos to Bush for releasing such a great book about Michael. A lot of things that needed to be said.
I also see why Branca wrote a foreword to it. It's totally deserved.
 
I'm reading it and absolutely loving it! It's amazing, fascinating, mind-blowing. Not just because of the pictures, but because of the things Bush writes about. I admire Michael on a whole new level. It's definitely the best MJ-related publication of the year. Would make a great gift to any fan for the holiday season!

Kudos to Bush for releasing such a great book about Michael. A lot of things that needed to be said.
I also see why Branca wrote a foreword to it. It's totally deserved.


Well said, and I completely agree. For me, this would be the third 'essential' MJ book purchase / gift after 'Moonwalk' and 'Dancing the Dream'. I think MLB has done a great job with this, and I congratulate him and the 'Insight publications' team who brought this to fruition. This is a great read with wonderful illustrations and deserves to become a timeless classic.

Incidentally, I thought it was interesting that the European book-signing tour is in association with 'Hard Rock Cafe'. I wonder if they hope to purchase some / all of Michael's costumes, for exhibition?
 
Well said, and I completely agree. For me, this would be the third 'essential' MJ book purchase / gift after 'Moonwalk' and 'Dancing the Dream'. I think MLB has done a great job with this, and I congratulate him and the 'Insight publications' team who brought this to fruition. This is a great read with wonderful illustrations and deserves to become a timeless classic.

Incidentally, I thought it was interesting that the European book-signing tour is in association with 'Hard Rock Cafe'. I wonder if they hope to purchase some / all of Michael's costumes, for exhibition?

Could be nice if Hard Rock could do a costume tour around the world. I'm hoping to go to the signing in Amsterdam next week. Anyone else going as I"m probably going alone?
 
Just ordered my copy from Amazon. A great friend got me Michael Bush's autograph addressed to me so I can put that in my book when it arrives. Can't see any book signings in Turkey so, for me, this is the next best thing.
 
On Wednesday I had the great honour of meeting Michael Bush while attending the exhibition in Stratford. First of all, I loved the items in the exhibition since they changed it. The earlier exhibition there had undoubtedly all the clothing you would expect in a Michael Jackson exhibition, but the new one changed it up with more personal outfits and obscure performance outfits. It was a treasure to see, and the crown jewel for me was the red lion T-shirt that Michael wore on June 23rd 2009, designed by Dennis Tompkins while in Vegas.

When it came time for me to get my book signed, Bush welcomed me warmly and saw my hand slightly shaking, seeing that I was slightly nervous to meet him. He let me have a picture with him first before signing the book, after which he very graciously allowed me to ask him some questions. Being the sheepish person I am, I only managed to get a few out, but I asked him questions that had been lingering in my mind for a while.

His favourite tour to costume was "probably the Bad Tour" but HIStory was the most challenging in making the chest plate look weighty. His favourite film to costume was Leave Me Alone because Michael decided to give him the Grammy he won for it because of his great work. He and Tompkins made approximately 900 costumes for Michael and his kids over the past 25 years.

"The King of Style" was a book 25 years in the making between Tompkins, Bush and MJ. But every time a tour started, the book was put on hold because new styles and outfits would need to be included. He said that the only way the book could therefore be definitively completed was sadly due to Michael's passing.

He also said that the main charity to benefit from the auction would be to give children seeing eye dogs on the grounds that many got to see Michael dance in some form, but the blind were never able to. He wants to do something good for them.

Michael had three copies of every outfit for tours: the one he wore regularly, one in Bush's room and one hidden away in a case to prevent theft. Sometimes he would have only two costumes for film clips and on occasion only one, but never more than three.

Michael always said to Tompkins and Bush during This Is It "we'll get to London when we get to London"; He was going to live in a castle in Kent and London was always one of his favourite cities. However, one of Michael's biggest fears was that the show would not be good enough for his fans. He never spoke to Tompkins and Bush over any plans after This Is It; Bush remarked that Michael was a very spontaneous person in that regard; never thinking about the distant future but living fully in the present.

He cited his reason for completing the book now is that with Michael, Tompkins and DiLeo gone, he wanted to get the book out there before he meets the same fate, as he was the only person alive that knows the meaning and origins behind all the costumes. He didn't want someone else to tell the story for him, so he wanted to release the book to present his knowledge of Michael's costumes and to tell his story of the Michael that he and Tompkins knew.

Bush was an INCREDIBLY kind person; he saw that I was slightly nervous meeting him and was very courteous to me. He loved talking about Michael and was very happy to answer any questions I had in as much detail as he could. It was a pleasure meeting him and the book itself is a true treasure. I've learned a lot about how Michael was around those he trusted: a perfectionist who loved to challenge the duo rather than give them a true directive. He had an incredible sense of humour and loved to make Bush feel embarrassed or bashful while on-stage. He fully trusted their judgement when it came to clothing and that trust lasted right into This Is It. It is a fantastic book and I cannot recommend it enough. It is right up there with "Man in the Music" as essential reading for fans.

39287_3929583604165_1005293091_n.jpg
 
WOW Jesta great story. Thanks for sharing it. I am so greatful to MLB for writing this book and he is right. It must be written now while he is still here. There is no one else who can tell this story and present the History of Michael Iconic wardrobe and costumes. This Book has great Historical vallue and something many fans are interested in and will treasure. Also thank you for the AWESOME Picture :)
 
great story, great picture! thank you so much for sharing, Jesta.


WOW Jesta great story. Thanks for sharing it. I am so greatful to MLB for writing this book and he is right. It must be written now while he is still here. There is no one else who can tell this story and present the History of Michael Iconic wardrobe and costumes. This Book has great Historical vallue and something many fans are interested in and will treasure. Also thank you for the AWESOME Picture :)

totally agree. I love this book, the pictures, the stories in it. Yes, I'm grateful too. I think for us fans this work is really essential.
 
I just received the book in the mai! Really love that it's so big, heavy and truly a collector's item that everyone should have. There are quite a few rare pics in it too and the stories are super genuine and interesting. Plus how cool are those measurements, patterns and 'how to' pages. :wild:

A book like this, focussing on Michael's fashion, is what I've been waiting for for soooooo long. So happy that Michael Bush has put this together so well. He'll come to Amsterdam this week to promote the book and show some of MJ's outfits at the Hard Rock Cafe. I'll go there and take some pics with my DSLR for my blog and share them here.

To be continued! ;)
 
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